Nascent suns burst from the darkness

This is going to be a rapid-fire, not proof-read post (actually this is all of them, sorry everyone for any misspellings or run-on sentences or puns/metaphors/analogies I try to use that don't make sense!).

On Friday, I had a meeting with Azim Ji and Abid Ji about my Independent Study Project topic (which is currently fluctuating between something about child labors/street children and women's health) and then head off to Select City Mall walk with Rachael and Tania. I had heard that it was the equivalent of an American mall, but in reality it's fancier, brighter, and more pleasant than most American malls I've been in. It was completely surprising but also incredibly nice to be in a place where we felt comfortable and no one stared at us. There were American and British stores and food places(Burberry, DKNY, Adidas, Puma, Cinnabon, etc., so not really places I ever shop anyway but still places that reminded me of home).

We then met up with Molly, Sarah Kate, Becca, Julia, Georgia, and Quinn at a hookah bar called Mocha, and people enjoyed some rare luxuries. Other people drank their calories in the form of sangria and breezers, but being me, I (of course) opted for flourless chocolate cake instead, which was divine. It was utterly relaxing and lovely, and a great break from the chaos of Delhi. I think we all needed it, and Rachael and I definitely went home feeling refreshed.

On Saturday, we went to Chandni Chowk, which is the big main market in Old Delhi. It's notorious crowded and hectic (this is the place that my host dad referred to as "dripping with people everywhere you turn"), so we went around 10 a.m. to hopefully beat the biggest crowds of the day. We took the Metro and got there around 11, and just happened to see Tania and Poonam getting off the Metro right in front of us. We caught up to them, and they were with Poonam's cousin Neha (who is good friends with Chidi from high school!) and her friend. Both of them are studying Hindi and Urdu for the entire year in Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh. We were lucky to find them, because all four spoke Hindi and helped us navigate Chandni Chowk. I pictured it as more of a market, but it was really just an area of tons of little shops and back alleys (called gulleys.. wait no they're not, I just looked it up. It's actually "gali" apparently, which makes a lot more sense since that's probably Hindi.) with food stands and people selling goods of all kinds. At first it wasn't too overwhelming, but as it got later, people really started to pour in and I was being jostled all over the place. I kept thinking people were intentionally bumping and hitting me, but it was just the crowd being so dense most of the time that it was unavoidable.

We didn't buy anything, but decided to go to Paratha Wali Gali to get parathas, which are like fried rotis/flat bread filled with whatever you want. I got mine with cashews, which was delicious. We then ventured out to find jalebi, and stopped at Sisganj Gurdwara, a Sikh temple apparently built in 1675. It was cool and open and peaceful inside, which was a nice break from the rest of Chandni Chowk. Eventually we found jalebi, which is basically funnel cake dipped in thick, delicious (but maybe too sweet) syrup. After that, Neha decided she wanted her nose re-pierced (I later heard she went to a sketchy place that didn't really clean the hook they used to pierce it... why she did this is unclear, but everyone just be happy I didn't do that too!).

Rachael and I decided to continue our adventures and head to Akshardam, and five-year-old Hindu temple that is incredibly impressive. Apparently some people think it's more beautiful than the Taj, but I don't think it is simply because it lacks the same history and lore. Entry is free, but we opted to also pay Rs 200 to go to the "exhibitions" that they have on display. Let me tell you, it was a strange experience. Exhibit 1 was a "robotics show," in which we were shuffled from room to room to see impressive but slightly creepy lifelike robots depicting the entire life of Swaminarayan, a 17th Hindu saint that some people believe was God himself. Apparently he mastered the Vedas but 7, left home at 11, traveled 12,000 kilometers across India barefoot over the course of seven years, mastered Ashtanga yoga by 14, taught everyone he saw to be a better person, and did a variety of other impressive things along the way. After this was over, we watched a 50-minute movie (also about his life) on a MASSIVE (Imax-sized, possibly bigger) screen, but it at least included lovely landscape views of India. Rachael and I both fell asleep. Next was a boat ride, similar to "It's a Small World," but depicting 10,000 years of Indian history using lifelike statues in scenes on the shores of the artificial river. It was more nationalist propaganda than history lesson, but the boat ride was at least fun.

Coming out of the exhibitions, which took much longer than expected, was worth it, however. The temple is ornately carved and lit up at night, and it truly is breathtaking. I shall post pictures upon my return from Udaipur (where I will be, sans internet, until Saturday morning!). We went inside, marveled a bit, and then headed out for the musical fountain show, complete with religious chanting, lights, and a truly beautiful water show set to a lovely instrumental Indian song. After our exhausting day (due to my overambitious planning, sorry Rachael!), we finally headed home. Actually first we had to collect our cameras and phones and water bottles, because security at Akshardam is weirdly tight. Also confusing was the presence of heavily armed security officers (apparently the pistol isn't big here, all the police officers and security men have rifles that they non-nonchalantly point wherever), because one of the main tenets of Swaminarayan's preaching was nonviolence. We were even treated to a cute/creepy display of talking animals telling us not to eat them.

On Sunday, we decided to have a relaxing morning, and Sulman (the maid, who is our age apparently and is very nice but with whom we struggle to communicate) made us plain parathas and eggs. I like the plain parathas with jam because it's like a crepe, but apparently they're really only a savory thing so people think I'm weird. We then went to an exhibition of crafts and such at the Indian Islamic Cultural Center, where a few host parents had booths. The wares were beautiful but expensive, but I didn't pass up the opportunity to buy a piece of chocolate ganache tart (typical, once again). We met up with Liz B. and Sagarika and wandered around Lodi Gardens, and then Rachael and I headed home. We were supposed to meet Khadeeja's mom last night, but apparently she's been under the weather lately. We met her niece though! She's very sweet and knows excellent English.

In t-minus two hours I depart for Udaipur, apparently the most romantic city in India. Don't worry though, there is no romance on this trip. Twenty-two of the 24 people on our program are women, and we were told to stay away from Indian men because apparently they think we're all harlots or something. Go figure. Thanks American media!

I will be without internet until Saturday at least, so I won't respond till then, but I would love to have a message from any/all of you waiting upon my return!

Oh also today we had a question in Hindi about what our favorite book was and I thought of a Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius and I only read it while I was in South Africa but now I really, really want to read it again, which is not a feeling I get very often. That and maybe Cat's Cradle. I should read more, that's what non-Dartmouth terms are for, right? Theoretically I should have time to pleasure read. Maybe I'll buy a book in Udaipur!

Au revoir friends!